Friday, July 29, 2016

Life History of the Chocolate Royal v2.0

Life History of the Chocolate Royal (Remelana jangala travana)


Butterfly Biodata:
Genus: Remelana Moore, 1884
Species: jangala Horsfield, 1829
Subspecies: travana Hewitson, 1865
Wingspan of Adult Butterfly: 31-35mm
Caterpillar Local Host Plants: Ixora 'Super Pink' hybrid/cultivar. of Ixora chinensis (Rubiaceae, common name: Ixora, chinese name: 龙船花), Eurya acuminata (Theaceae, chinese name: 尖叶柃).




A female Chocolate Royal.

Physical Description of Adult Butterfly:
On the upperside, the male is deep lustrous purple with broad brown border on both wings; the female is paler purple and different from the male in having basal areas of spaces 2 and 3 entirely purple. On the underside, both sexes are brown with conspicuous cell-end bars and post-discal series of dark brown striae on both wings. The prominent black tornal spot and the black marginal spot in space 2 are bothcrowned with brilliant metallic green/blue scaling. Between and beyond the two spots, the marginal area of spaces 1a, 1b and 3 is also covered with same metallic scaling. There are two pairs of white-tipped tails at the end of veins 1b and 2.




Field Observations:
This species is moderately rare in Singapore and can be found in forested areas of the nature reserves. There are also infrequent sightings of this species in urban parks and gardens. Adults are fast flyers and make rapid sorties among foliage. Both sexes have been observed to visit flowers of various plants for nectar. The male has also been observed to puddle on wet grounds.






Early Stages:
Two local host plants have been recorded for the Chocolate Royal. They are Eurya acuminata and Ixora 'Super Pink'. Caterpillars of the Chocolate Royal feed on the flowers, flower buds, and young and tender leaves of the host plants. In the wild, the caterpillars are found in the company of attending ants.


5th instar caterpillar and the pre-pupa of Chocolate Royal being attended by ants.

Local host plant #1: Ixora 'Super Pink'.

Local host plant #2: Eurya acuminata.

The eggs are laid singly on the underside of leaves, young shoots, on or in the vicinity of flower buds of the host plants. Each egg is about 0.7-08mm in diameter, white with a strong greenish tinge when freshly laid. It is burger-shaped with a depressed micropylar at the pole and a surface reticulated with rather large polygonal depressions.

Two views of an egg of the Chocolate Royal, laid on leaf underside.

An egg of the Chocolate Royal laid on the flower bud of Ixora 'Super Pink'.

It takes about 3 days for the egg to hatch. The caterpillar nibbles away the polar portion of the egg shell to emerge, and does not eat the egg shell remnant. The newly hatched is pale yellowish with lateral orangy brown bands running lengthwise. Its body has a length of about 1.3mm and has long setae dorso-laterally and laterally. The prothoracic shield are both pale brown. Typically the newly hatched finds its way to adjacent flower buds, feeding on the peduncle or the bud proper where it will bore a hole to reach the flower parts within. After about 3 days of growth in the first instar, and reaching a length of about 2.5-2.7mm, the caterpillar moults to the next instar.

Two views of a 1st caterpillar, newly hatched, length: 1.3mm.

Two views of a 1st instar caterpillar, length: 2mm.

An early 1st instar caterpillar eating away the peduncle (flower stalk) of an Ixora flower.

In the 2nd instar caterpillar, the prothoracic shield and the head are both black, a significant change from the earlier pale brown coloration. The body still features reddish brown lateral bands and bear numerous short fine setae on its surface. On the dorsum of the 7th abdominal segment, the dorsal nectary organ is present but still inconspicuous. The 2nd instar caterpillar reaches a length of about 3.6-3.9mm, and after about 3 days in this stage, it moults again.

Two views of a 2nd instar caterpillar, newly moulted, eating its exuvia, length: 2.5mm.

Two views of a 2nd instar caterpillar, length: 3mm.

A 2nd instar caterpillar of the Chocolate Royal on a young shoot of Ixora 'Super Pink'.

The 3rd instar caterpillar loses the contrasting lateral brown bands in the previous instars. Its body is now uniformly coloured in pale yellowish brown to pale green. The prothoracic shield and the head retains the black coloration. The dorsal nectary organ is now more conspicuous and has a short bar-like appearance. There is no visible sign of any tentacular organs (common in many other lycaenid species) on the 8th abdominal segment. The 3rd instar takes about 3 days to complete with the body length reaching about 6.5-7mm.

Two views of a 3rd instar caterpillar, length: 5.5mm.

Two views of a late 3rd instar caterpillar, length: 7mm.

An early 3rd instar caterpillar of the Chocolate Royal boring a hole on the flower bud of Ixora 'Super Pink'.

The 4th instar caterpillar resembles the 3rd instar closely. Its body is still yellowish green to dull green, covered with numerous tiny setae. The black coloration of the prothoracic shield is retained in some specimens but changed to a brown to pale brown coloration in others. The bar-like dorsal nectary organ is marked with two reddish brown marks around a central white speck, giving it a prominent appearance. The 4th instar takes about 3 days to complete with the body length reaching 12.5-13mm.

Two views of an early 4th instar caterpillar, length: 7.5mm.

Two views of a late 4th instar caterpillar, length: 12.5mm.

A 4th instar caterpillar of the Chocolate Royal feeding on an Ixora flower.

A 4th instar caterpillar of the Chocolate Royal feeding on an flower bud of Eurya acuminata.

The 5th instar caterpillar has similar markings as in the 4th instar. The body colour takes on a brighter shade of yellowish green and the prothoracic shield, together with rest of the prothorax, has faded further to pale yellowish brown. When an ant approaches, the dorsal nectary organ can be observed to protrude and exude droplets of clear nectary fluid.

Two views of a newly moulted 5th instar caterpillar, length: 12mm.

Two views of a 5th instar caterpillar, late in this stage, length: 20.5mm.

Close-up view of the prothorax and the dorsal nectary organ of a 5th instar caterpillar of the Chocolate Royal. Lower left: dorsal nectary organ; lower right: the prothorax.

A 5th instar caterpillar of the Chocolate Royal eating flower buds of Eurya acuminata.

A 5th instar caterpillar of the Chocolate Royal eating flower buds of Ixora 'Super Pink'.

After about 5-6 days of feeding and reaching a length of about 21-23mm, the caterpillar stops food intake and wanders around for a pupation site. During this time, its body gradually shortened. Typically the caterpillar chooses a site on the sheltered surface of a leaf for its pupation site.

An ant triggers the protrusion of the dorsal nectary organ of a Chocolate Royal caterpillar and reaping its reward.

The dark jade-green pre-pupatory caterpillar prepares for pupation by spinning a silk girdle and a silk pad to which it attaches itself via anal claspers. After about 1 day as a pre-pupa, pupation takes place. The pupa is predominantly jade green and has numerous small whitish speckles. Pupal length: 12-13mm. The stout pupa has a typical lycaenid shape with a short abdomen.

Two views of a pre-pupa of the Chocolate Royal.

Two views of a pupa of the Chocolate Royal.

Six to seven days later, the pupa turns black, mostly in the thorax and wing pads. The bluish patch on the forewing upperside of the adult can now be seen in the wing pads. The next day, the pupal stage comes to an end with the emergence of the adult butterfly.

Two views of a mature pupa of a Chocolate Royal.

A newly eclosed Chocolate Royal.

References:
  • [C&P4] The Butterflies of The Malay Peninsula, A.S. Corbet and H.M. Pendlebury, 4th Edition, Malayan Nature Society, 1992.
  • Butterflies of Thailand, Pisuth Ek-Amnuay, 2nd Edition, 2012.
  • A Field Guide to the Butterflies of Singapore, Khew S.K., Ink On Paper Communications, 2nd Edition, 2015.
Text by Horace Tan, Photos by Koh Cher Hern, Goh LC, Nelson Ong, Sunny Chir, Khew S K and Horace Tan

Saturday, July 23, 2016

Butterfly Photography 101 - Part 2

Butterfly Photography 101
Part 2 - Macro Photography and Magnification Devices



In my earlier article, we introduced a variety of image-capturing equipment that can take pictures of butterflies. These range from a humble smartphone with a camera, to a wide spectrum of point-and-shoot digital cameras, to the high end Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) cameras with full-frame or APS sized (cropped frame) sensors.


Some serious (!) DSLR equipment with dedicated lens, multiple flashes, tripod and tripod for macro photography

In Part 2 of the series, we leave the lower end digital cameras aside, and assume that you have now jumped onto the DSLR bandwagon and are looking for the appropriate magnification devices to start you on your journey to butterfly photography. As you may have already been researching on the internet, the range of equipment to couple with your DSLR camera body can be quite mind-boggling. Learning more about each different device, you may end up having more unanswered questions!


A 1:1 magnification shot of a Cycad Blue

Firstly, let us define what we typically refer to as "macro photography" with reference to butterfly photography. The term "macro" has often been loosely used to market a whole range of equipment, ranging from general purpose lenses, close-up filters to the true specialised macro lenses. So let us define the basic parameters of what constitutes a good macro device. A macro lens or any photographic combo in macro photography begins with a one-to-one ratio (depicted frequently as 1:1 ratio).


A 1:1 macro shot of a large butterfly, the Saturn (Zeuxidia amethystus amethystus)

So what is a 1:1 ratio? A lens or a combination of devices attached to any lens that can achieve a 1:1 ratio means that the lens or lens combo is "capable of projecting the real life size of a subject onto the sensor of the camera body". Not all macro lenses nor those which are labelled as "macro lenses" are capable of this 1:1 ratio. For example, the Sigma 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 DC Macro OS HSM is touted as a "macro" lens, but if you look at the technical specifications of the lens, the maximum magnification of the lens is only 1:3. This means that you can only get one-third of the actual size of a subject on the sensor at the minimum focusing distance.


A simple graphical comparison and explanation of magnification ratios © Nancy Rotenberg and Michael Lustbader

The slide above shows the various magnification ratios from 1:1 to 2:1. So when you pick an all-in-one "macro" lens for your butterfly photography, take a look at the technical specifications of the lens and check to see what its maximum magnification is. Whilst a non 1:1 lens works for general butterfly photography of larger butterflies, you will be hard-pressed to get the details and actual size of a small butterfly with a lens that has a magnification ratio that is 1:2 or 1:4. This is particularly so, when the subject itself is smaller than the sensor of your camera.

So what other photographic devices or attachments that can get you close to 1:1 ratio? A list of possible equipment (from cheapest to the most expensive) is :

  • Reversing Rings with prime/zoom lens combo
  • Stacked lenses via adaptor filter rings
  • Extension tubes
  • Closeup (or diopter) filters
  • Teleconverters
  • Dedicated macro lenses


A Nikon system using a reversing ring to reverse an 18-55mm standard zoom lens for close-up photography

Reversing Ring

For enthusiasts who have bought a basic DSLR with a kit lens (e.g. 18-55mm), it is possible to get 1:1 magnification ratio (or even more) by simply purchasing a reversing ring and attaching it to your camera body with the lens reversed. A reversing ring is essentially a simple device that has the camera mount on one side, and screw mount on the other. This allows your lens to be mounted backwards onto your camera.



Using a reversing ring and how a prime lens would look like, from the front, when reversed

This is probably the cheapest option you have, to get larger-than-life images with your existing equipment, without having to spend exorbitant amounts of money on specialised equipment. However, be aware that you lose all electronic controls over aperture, AF and so on, and you will have to manage everything in manual mode. The depth of field is also very shallow, and you may not get the quality of image that you hoped for. A basic article describing how to use a reversing ring for Canon cameras can be found here.

Stacked Lenses


Stacking a Sigma macro lens with a prime lens for high magnification photography

Equally cheap and probably as effective in getting higher magnification on your subjects, is combining two lenses, with one of them reversed. This is possible by using a male-to-male filter coupler. This allows two lenses to be attached facing each other. Combining two short focal length prime lenses give the best results. The formula for calculating the magnification that you can get from stacking lenses is focal length of prime lens divided by focal length of reversed lens. Some explanation on the use of stacked lenses can be found here.

Extension Tubes

Next device up the list is the extension tube. An extension tube works by creating more space between the lens and the digital sensor. By "extending" the lens away from the camera body, you enable yourself to get closer to the subject. As you increase the size of the extension tube, you increase the ability to move even closer. The relationship between the focal length of a lens and the dimension of an extension tube determines how close you can get to a subject while achieving focus. The closer you can get, the greater the magnification.


Extension tubes from 3rd party manufacturer, Uniplus.  Note electrical contacts that allow the primary lens to electronically communicate with the camera body, therefore retaining autofocus and aperture controls

For many lenses, the minimum focusing distance can be reduced by attaching an extension tube (or several extension tubes in tandem) to increase the magnification of the lens. This allows the photographer to go in closer to get a magnification ratio that would otherwise not be possible just with the lens. However, the lens can no longer focus to infinity and you will have to move in and out to get within the focusing distance of the lens with the extension tube combo.


Attaching a 25mm extension tube to a Nikkor 105mm macro lens for greater than 1:1 magnification

If you use extension tubes, buy those with the electrical contacts that still allow the camera body to communicate with the lens. Third party extension tubes are adequate, and these often come in a set of three - 12.5mm, 25mm and 50mm tubes, and cost in the region of SGD$180-$250. As extension tubes have no glass elements in them, there is minimal or no effect on the optics of your existing lenses. Additional information explaining the use of extension tubes, including a magnification ratio calculator can be found here.

Close-Up Filters


A Nikon dual-element close up filter and a standard Hoya +2 diopter close-up filter

The next device that a photographer may want to consider, is a close-up filter. In very layman terms, this is equivalent to using a magnifying glass in front of your eyes to enlarge something that you are looking at. The close-up filter screws in front of your lens, and enlarges the image onto the camera's sensor. As there are many types of such close-up filters with a wide range of diopters, choose the dual element types as these correct for optical aberrations and give you decently sharp images.

Teleconverters

Slightly further up on the list of magnification devices (cost-wise), is the teleconverter (or tele extender). This is basically a magnifying lens that is attached between your camera body and the lens in use. Teleconvertors come in various magnifications like 1.4x, 1.7x, 2.0x and even up to 3.0x. A 2.0x teleconvertor would enable a macro lens that does 1:1 magnification the ability to do 2:1 at the same working distance or 1:1 at twice the working distance.


Two brands of 3rd party 1.4x teleconverters - Left : Sigma APO 1.4x teleconverter.  Right : Teleplus 1.4x teleconverter

The downside of using a teleconvertor is that putting additional glass elements between the primary lens and the camera's sensor implies that there may be some image degradation. Furthermore, the amount of light reaching the sensor is reduced and you will have to increase the aperture to get the correct exposure. A good branded teleconvertor may also set you back about SGD$400 or more!


A Sigma 1.4x teleconverter attached to a Sigma 150mm f/2.8 macro lens

The unique features of using each of these magnifying devices mentioned above can also be combined - i.e. using extension tubes with teleconverters, or teleconverters with close up filters or even all three! However, the combo may be heavy, lopsided and impractical for shooting butterflies in the field.

Dedicated Macro Lenses

The "ideal" lens for photographing butterflies is the dedicated macro lens. Usually more costly than standard lenses, the macro lens is designed for close-up work and most can achieve a 1:1 magnification ratio. The focal lengths of macro lenses can range from 50mm to a high of 200mm. Remember that all these can achieve 1:1 magnification ratio. The longer the focal length of the macro lens, the better the working distance between you and the subject. In the case of butterflies, which may be skittish, a longer working distance makes a difference between getting a good shot of the butterfly, or getting a good shot of the leaf on which the butterfly sat - after it had flown off!


Working distance comparison amongst various 1:1 macro lenses

A table showing a list of the popular 1:1 macro lenses and the working distance (the distance between the subject and the camera's sensor at the closest focusing distance). Note that the choice of lenses will also determine how much you can afford to spend on these specialised lenses. The longer the focal length of the lens, the higher the price. The cost of a dedicated macro lens can range between SGD$600 to SGD$2,200.


Various dedicated macro lenses that feature 1:1 magnification ratios. From left to right : Nikkor 105mm f2.8 Macro, Sigma 150mm F2.8 EX DG OS HSM APO Macro, Tamron SP AF 180mm F/3.5 Di LD[IF] Macro and Sigma APO Macro 180mm F2.8 EX DG OS HSM Macro

Many ButterflyCircle members use the Tamron 180mm macro lens. This is a very capable lens with accurate colour rendition and bokeh. It is relatively light compared with the 180-200mm range of macro lenses from Canon, Nikon and Sigma, although the AF could be better. However, it is an excellent workhorse, robust in design and is a good all-round lens for butterfly photography.


© Tamron Website : Tamron SP AF 180mm F/3.5 Di LD[IF] Macro - an excellent "standard issue" weapon of choice for butterfly shooters

Shorter macro lenses are less expensive and those in the 90-100mm range are quite usable for the more cooperative butterflies. Anything below these focal lengths for macro lenses would not be too practical for shooting butterflies as you will have to go really close to the subject and more often than not, scare the butterfly off before you can take a shot. In recent years, new macro lenses have incorporated gyro-stabilisers into the lenses (IS, OS, VR, VC equivalent) to help deal with motion blur. This feature tends to increase the weight and dimensions of the lenses, and obviously, the price.



And there you go, a very basic article to help photographers who would like to shoot butterflies, decide on the variety of devices that are available to start off their journey in butterfly photography using a DSLR system.

Text and Photos by Khew SK

Butterfly Photography 101 Series :

Part 1 : Hardware and Equipment

References : 

  • The Complete Guide to Close-up and Macro Photography by Paul Harcourt Davies ISBN 0 7153 0800 9
  • How to Photograph Close-ups in Nature by Nancy Rotenberg and Michael Lustbader ISBN 0 8117 2457 3